Foundations for My Cocktail/Fascinator Hats: Part II, Including Blocking Suede and Other Millinery Materials

I have a nasty habit of giving things away.  I picked this up from my grandparents, two extremely generous people.  I guess this is a good thing, after all I've gotten back more than I've ever given away.  You see, back in February of 2010, I brought you Foundations for My Cocktail/Fascinator Hats and promised, I think, to post a followup showing how to put the lining in the hat.  Well, someone wanted the hat even before I finished it, so I gave it to them.  Since that time I've received a number of emails asking me how to put a lining in a fascinator.


Since I haven't had any sleep in over 24 hours, I'm asking you to forgive me in advance for my more than usual number of typos.   Please read over Foundations for My Cocktail/Fascinator Hats and I'll start where I left off, almost.  Rather than working with a stretch material I will be covering this hat with two layers of suede, one of which will have to be blocked before it is sewn to the buckram foundation.  I will also block the lining.  


I'm growing tired of wining about seeing millinery fabrics that don't hug the frames they cover.  So, I can either stop wining or do something about it.  I have to tell you that every time I see fabric that does not fit a frame correctly, I have an internal tantrum, especially when I see it in a high fashion magazine!  I'm working on this.  If you ever want to cure yourself of something like this just listen to someone else complain about something similar without helping or offering a solution.  Not so cute is it?


When I started taking millinery classes we had to steam and block everything.  We had to block the buckram, the lining, and all fabrics that were not stretch fabrics.  To your right is an image that shows suede that has not been blocked.  This does not look professional at all.


To block suede or leather, mist the inside of the fabric with water.  I use a very fine mister.  Stretch the fabric over a hat block and let it dry.  To stretch fabric that has a bias, stretch the fabric on the bias over a block and steam it, readjusting the fabric re-pinning as you steam.  It's just that simple.  See lining, below right.  I don't steam buckram anymore.  I prefer to mist it or do a very fast dip in water and work the moisture three the fabric in my hands.  This way the buckram appears to dry harder than it was originally (same as steaming it).


Using a glover's needle (leather needle) sew the suede to the frame catching only the crinoline.  The second layer of suede, the black mesh, did not have to be blocked because it automatically hugged the frame.  However, I blocked the lining.  


Note:  If you are adding trim to your hat, sew the trim on before the lining is attached, if possible.  Use your best judgement.


After the lining has dried, lay it into the crown and pin it to the suede using fine quilting pins or millinery pins (fine quilting pins are easier for suede and leather).  Stitch the lining to the suede about  1/4 th inch down from the edge of the hat.  Trim the lining; it is not necessary to turn the lining under. 
  Note:  Every layer of fabric, including hat band, diminishes or adds to the inner or outer  side of a hat.  Although turning the lining under does not affect this type of hat, it will affect a full crown hat. Remember, by turning the fabric under you will have an additional layer of fabric.   I prefer to trim the lining down rather than turn it under no matter what type of hat I'm working with.
Swirl your  grosgrain ribbon (petersham in some places, sawtooth to some), pin it to the suede (remember that the lining is 1/4 th inch down).  stich it into place.  




Additional Images

Adding support wire for feather:  Added feet to the wire and stitched them under the black suede mesh.


































Feather Trim:  Feather curled in opposite direction of curve, using  my thumb's nail to pinch the spine approximately every 1/4 th of an inch.








Lining Fabric:

Lining Fabric:  Design created using my logo in graphics software and printing the fabric on my Epson printer  (fabric will have to be attached to paper before printing).


O.K., the label is a bit overkill!


Final Notes:  Please take advantage of the free online resources in the sidebar of this blog.  Also, purchase a reference book.  My first millinery book was "From the Neck Up." You can find it on the author's site, on Amazon, Ebay, etc.  I didn't go into detail as far as stitches, etc., are concerned because I really feel that if you are new to millinery, you should do some exploration and experimentation on your own.  If possible, take a class.  


If you do not have a block, purchase a wooden bowl of similar shape and block and make frames using the bowl.  

Have fun!!

How to Make and Trim a Fascinator Even Kate Middleton Would Love

First, Happy Mothers' Day All!!

OK, so maybe Kate wouldn't love this hat, but I think it's cute.

Some of you still have time to rush out and purchase a few millinery supplies if you would like to make that Mothers' Day Fascinator!  Well if you need a little help, this post is for you.



When a Web surfer enters a query into Google or any other search engine, they are given a list of sites that satisfy that query.  So, over the past week my site statistics have shown that the majority of the queries that led to my site asked the questions:  "How to make a fascinator?" and "How to make a fascinator base?"  Today, since it has been some time since I've been in touch with you, I'm making a hasty post; I'll address the fascinator base (frame, foundation).



I've touched on the fascinator before when I introduced the buckram fascinator frame in a previous post, but this time I'll show you how to make a very easy fascinator base using sinamay, no traditional foundation blocking  needed.  Don't forget those fascinator tutorials published by Threads Magazine; they were absolutely wonderful.  Also, check out how to make a bow, including how to make faux feathers.  Don't leave the site until you've queried on  millinery, hat making, hat trimming, and hat embellishment for even more millinery tutorials.

If you don't want to make your own frames, besides being an excellent source for vintage millinery supplies, California Millinery manufactures buckram frames on site of all types, shapes, and sizes and at reasonable prices.  Here is a link to some of their smaller frames.  These frames do not in any manner represent what they have in stock.  You will have to call them for more information, since the site is incomplete.  It would probably be worth your while to order frames from California Millinery even if you don't live in Los Angeles, especially if you are interested in purchasing frames in bulk; they will ship anywhere.  Diego is fabulous!!!

I've just published my first YouTube video, and I'm so excited!!  The video demonstrates how to swirl grosgrain ribbon.  I've noticed that many of you new to millinery have gathers and gaps in your headbands, your sidebands do not hug the side of your hats, and the edges of your hats have the same issues.  Knowing how to swirl your grosgrain ribbon will help to solve this problem.  Also, please realize that natural materials cut on the bias can be swirled.  As a matter of fact, you may want to cover the edge of your base frame with sinamay bias strips.  Do a little homework, explore the free online millinery books listed here in the sidebar. If you are not familiar with bias, swirling the ribbon, grosgrain, etc., it can all be found here just by following the reference links in the sidebar.  I hope you enjoy the video..


Now to the tutorial....

First make a circular (or other shape) pattern and from three layers of sinamay, cut out the desired size.

Using a buttonhole or whip stitch, attach millinery wire as shown in the buckram fascinator tutorial.

Swirl the grosgrain ribbon as shown in the video below.  Note that the ribbon should be a natural fiber ribbon or at least 40 to 60 percent natural.  Here in the States, at least in my vicinity, this ribbon is called millinery grosgrain or sawtooth ribbon.  I'm sure there are other names for it.  This ribbon has a "tooth" and it is not smooth on its edges.

Using a stab or catch stitch, attach the grosgrain ribbon.  See the list of  stitch videos in the sidebar.  Sorry, I have a tendency to misname stitches; I'll correct this in a future post and or revise this one.  I just do it, no thought, second nature. 

Over a bowl or a hat block, any concave surface, steam the fascinator base using your pressing iron.  Since the sinamay is sized (don't use unsized sinamay for this project) and because sinamay is a very pliable fabric, it will form to the curve of the mold.  Also, it will be stiffer than it was before it was steamed.

Take one of your bases and trim it to your desire.  For the hat above I've sewn one of these bases inside of the hat.  Please note that you do not have to cut your bases out in the same shape.  You could cut out bases of different shapes.

I prefer a hat elastic for attaching fascinators to the head because it can be positioned to almost any position without removing it.  If you don't have hat elastics (elastics with metal points on the end), take a large eyed needle, thread it with elastic, run it through the grosgrain, and anchor it with a stitch and a knot on each side of the base.  This actually works better than hat elastics because the metal tips have a tendency to slide off the end of the elastic.  Also, to avoid the metal slippage, I will crimp the metal with my wire cutters or my jewelry crimps.

For my non-English speaking friends that use a translator on my site, I will have to explain a few things that may not be clear in the video, since instructions appear written across the video frames.  For the edges of your hats and fascinators

How to Make a Couture Leather and Suede Flower for Your Couture Hat

I've chosen to make the suede and leather flower because there is so much information out there on French silk flower making.  All you have to do is peruse the Web, and/or check out vintage millinery and flower making books  (see sidebar for links to free online millinery books).

Of the few flower making irons I have, the rose petal iron is by far my favorite.  With this one iron I can make small to large roses just by varying the size of the petal and cutting small imperfections into the leather before the shape is pressed.  Actually, in the real world of flower making, you would have petal irons in various sizes  to make a single rose, including cutters for those shapes.

My original idea was to use my leaf irons, but in the end I used vintage leaves and stems to complete my beautiful roses.  This is not a comprehensive tutorial, but one to get you started.  Observe, research, and experiment.  Have fun!

For fun!  I also made a hatpin by pressing aluminum and brass into the same flower mold I used to make my flowers. I'm not sure if this was a good idea, but I had fun.

Technique

Please note that this tutorial is only for the type of flower irons shown here and not the ball irons.  Although you can make suede and leather flowers with ball irons, that technique will not be discussed here.  

1.  Create a template for your fabric by pressing a piece of paper towel--I use Viva because it does not tare--between the male and female iron mold parts.  I don't have a cutter (for every flower shape/iron, there is a cutter), so I have to manually create and cut the pattern and the fabric (leather and suede).

2.  Now that you have a petal shape; cut away the excess paper towel.

 3.  Flatten the paper template, glue it to cardboard, and cut the shape out.  For smaller petals, cut smaller templates based on where the curves of the iron fall.

3.  Cut out leather and/or suede petals using the templates you have created.  I didn't count the number of pieces; I just cut them out.  The fuller you want your flower, the more petals you cut out.

4.  Dampen the back of the fabric with water mixed with fabric stiffener (I use Stiffy) and set the petals aside for a minute or so until the mixture soaks in.  Do not over dampen the fabric.

5.  Placing this fabric between the flower press, press down firmly for a couple of seconds and release--the more pressure, the more detail.

6.  Gently remove the petal from the mold and set it aside to dry.

7.  Watch the YouTube video below showing how to put together a paper flower.  This same method can be used for leather flowers.

Please note that the petals (red flower) for this project were made using two methods.  Some petals were cold pressed (using no heat) and some were heat pressed--the mold portion without the handle was placed on a warmer and then pressed using the mold portion that has the handle attached.  Both methods worked very well, although I preferred the cold press because it was easier.  The dark petals were heat pressed.  

I have no idea how the professionals make leather flowers.  When there is little information on a subject, I just experiment until I get it right for me.  This experimentation is continuous, regardless of the project I'm working on.

Because I did not take pictures of all the stages I went through while making these roses, I'm including three videos below:  One for inspiration and study (actually all of them should be studied), one to show how flowers are cut and shaped with dies; and one to show how flowers are put together--included in the paper flower video.  Following the videos are resources where you can buy flower making tools--the same tools are used-- and instructional videos for making silk flowers.

 If you need some inspiration, check out Legeron for some of the most breathtaking flowers I've ever seen!


Ets Legeron, Paris: a tour from Lexy Hulme on Vimeo.

COTTON FLOWERS 

Resources for flower making tools:

I have flower irons that are manually heated, as well as an electric set of irons (attachments are inserted into an electric element).   Both has its advantages and disadvantages.  Over time, if you own both types of irons, you will come to have a favorite. 

Waltraud Reiner (Torb&Reiner) offers millinery supplies. I purchased my set of flower making balls and a flower making video from Waltraud's site.

Lacis offers millinery supplies and other supplies, including books on just about anything relating to the textile arts.  I purchased my electric set of tools from  the Lacis site.

For all of you that are like me that just can't wait to get something in your little hands to practice with as soon as a thought runs across your brow, Clover offers a ball adapter for its Mini Iron II.  I actually I use the tips I purchased from Lacis in this iron, because I burned my electric cord while making flowers.

The flower irons used in this tutorial are vintage (maybe antique).

Threads Magazine: How to Make a [Facinator] Hat Base

There are certain magazines that I have to pick up every month, depending on their content for that month.  Threads Magazine is one of those magazines.  I've been loving it for years, and now even more so.  You see, Threads is featuring millinery tutorials, and from what I've read there will be more such tutorials down the road.  Millinery information is in great demand today, so take advantage of every source you come across.  There is always something to learn.

The image to the right, from the Threads' site, is just one example of what is being offered.  Check out how to make the bow for this hat, including how to make the faux feathers.  When you're on the site query on millinery, hat making, hat trimming, and hat embellishment for even more millinery tutorials.

Please note that, in the sidebar to your right, there is a link to Threads noting to check out their stitch videos.  Just query on your stitch of interest.  Have fun!

How to Sew Millinery Straw Braid by Machine: Tips and Results

When Rose, one of my blog followers living in Texas, commented on my post, How to Sew Straw Braid by Machine, that she had completed her first straw braid hat just by following the instructions given in the post, I had no idea that she had sewn such a complicated design.  Rose is definitely on a mission to conquer the iron monster.  She told me that her braid machine had been collecting dust since May, with very little progress sewing braid, until she read the tutorial.  She also credited her husband for his support and help.  Rose later shared with me another project she was working on using another material.  She shared what she had learned, and she taught me a few things I didn't know.  I asked Rose's permission to showcase her hat in this post.  She gave me her permission and offered some words of encouragement:

"I would advise anyone not to be afraid of trying [to sew straw braid]... The reward of seeing what you can do by practicing and patience is paying off." 

I would say that Rose's diligence has already paid off.  Rose has used her hands and imagination to produce a very ornate straw sculpture.  Think about it!  I've heard of people taking months or years just to sew a straight round crown and brim!  Most of the time people just don't know where to start.  It's interesting that most of the manuals associated with "trade secretes" have virtually disappeared....  Thanks for sharing Rose.

Now, here are a few more tips I would like to share with you.

The Machine Tension 


Before you go further, take the time to familiarize yourself with the tension mechanism on you straw braid sewing machine.  Here is the patent for the Willcox & Gibbs straw braid sewing machine tension mechanism. I can't stress the importance of understanding this.  Most of these machines are similar, but this one may be the most popular.

Adjust Your Braid Spacing

I adjust my braid spacing by sewing-in-the-round (practice rows).  Here is an image; I've offset the top sewn braid from the bottom single braid for clarity.  After you become familiar with the placement of the braid guide in relation to where the needle penetrates the straw, you will be able to judge the braid overlap better.  I've noticed that most of these antique machines are missing the numbered measuring guide.



 The Button

Just follow the images.   Click on images for larger view.  Note that there is an oblong button; this will give you more of an oval shaped crown.  Study other hats to familiarize yourself with this type of button.  Remember that the button is first sewn by hand and then transferred to the machine.

.

Straw Preparation

If you are sewing a dry natural straw like the one above, you will have to dampen it.  Otherwise, the machine feed will literally ear the button!  The straw should be damp, not wet

Machine Oiling

If you are practicing or sewing braid for hours, you will have to oil this machine daily.  I use regular sewing machine oil.  It's up to you to research if there is another, more appropriate oil to use.  Unfortunately there is very little information on the straw machine.  I also have a regular Willcox & Gibbs sewing machine, so I use the manual for that machine as a guide for oiling, threading, etc., my braid machines.   There are many of these manuals located in the Smithsonian archives, probably because this manual belongs to a home machine. Yes, the machines are slightly different, but use your imagination.  Again follow the images.  Note that there are moving parts at the back of the braid machine.  So, where there is a hole, drop a bead of oil.  Never put oil in or on the machine's motor!


Machine Threading


Notice the difference between the tension device on the machine to your right and the braid machine above.  This does not affect the threading method of the machines.  Just follow the directions (numbers) to your right.  However, on the braid machine the thread goes between the disks.  Also note that the thread crosses over and goes through the loops on the braid machine (actually both machines).

For additional research go to the Smithsonian Institute located here, and go down to the bottom of the page to select Willcox & Gibbs.  If you have a different machine, I can almost guarantee you that your straw braid machine will work very similar to the one above.  There are zigzag machines, invisible stitch machines, etc., but you can still learn something from these instructions, if you do the research and practice.

A Few More Tips

1.  Go to the Smithsonian site and find the parts catalog for the braid machine (yes, that still exists).  Notice the feeds in the catalog.  There are different feeds for different straws; there are even different foots for different straws--fine milan (right), etc.  The milan feed is finer.  You can learn a lot from the parts catalog.  For example, one of my machines, see first straw post has an attachment that holds the straw firm to the machine (not the hook but another attachment--the outer edge plait guide--see below left image), see the patents, see the catalog.  I could go on and on, but it depends on how much research you are willing to do at this point.

2.  When the tipper is engaged, slow the sewing speed of the machine.

3.  Hold the lower single braid between the second and third fingers.  Hold the upper sewn braid between the thumb and the second finger.  So, with practice you will be able to guide both the upper (sewn) and lower (single) straws.  The left hand guides the crown.  Practice, practice.

4.  When all fails, read the patents.  It will be much easier now that you know more about the braid machine.

5.  Practice making different shapes.   Read how it's down in the first post.  After you have learned to make a full-size hat, practice by making smaller hats with various shapes.  By doing this you will save on supply costs.  Below, notice that only one side of the form has a brim. 

Show us your creations.  Good luck!

How to Sew Millinery Straw Braid by Machine

Note:  In order to keep my promise of creating a straw braid tutorial in a timely manner (actually not so timely), I'm issuing this post in DRAFT form, and I will be adding to it, hopefully, on a regular basis until it has been completed.  Of course I will add more images, but if you have resources that are relevant to this post, please share.

Let me assure you that I'm not an expert when it comes to sewing straw on the straw braid sewing machine, but I'll share what I've learned over the years.  I've picked up the machine and put it down over and over again until one day I decided to "just do it."  What I found out, is that it was quite easy.  I had been led to believe that that little machine was some big monster and that it would take years to learn how to operate it; no way!

Note:  If you do not have a straw braid sewing machine it is still possible to sew straw braid on a regular sewing machine.   A free-arm sewing machine would be ideal, but a regular flatbed will work also.  Of course you will not have the straw guide and the sewing area will be larger.

When I decided to "just do it" several things had occurred:

1)  I had purchased two straw braid sewing machines, and totally refurbished and added a base with motor to one.  As you may see, these machines are portable.  I don't have the room to accommodate a commercial machine setup.

2) I had collected patents for the straw braid sewing machine and its accessories.  You would think that a lady with a graduate degree would have had more success at deciphering that stuff--boringgggg!  I'm the type of person that will try to put something together before I read the instructions.  Yes, I had put that machine together, parts from here and there, filing metal for a week with a tiny Dremel tool.  I thought I had really accomplished something;  the machine worked perfectly.  I should have been learning how to stay focused while not understanding old 1800s patent language.

3) I had practiced on the machine and made cute LITTLE HATS.  No matter what I did, my hats always came out tiny. 

4)  I had asked questions concerning sewing on the braid machine and had either been given vague answers or had been outright insulted.  I love insults; they help me to succeed succeed.  Thank you.

5)  I emailed a very accomplished straw braid sculptural artist, Ignatius Creegan.  I had read his story in a magazine, and I became absolutely fascinated with his work.  I hadn't been so excited about straw since I first saw Patricia Underwood's hats a couple of decades ago.  Ignatius sent me an email describing, in detail, how to solve my small hat situation.  So, because he had been so wonderfully generous in sharing this information with me, I emailed him and asked for his permission to published it.  A few months after he had emailed me two years ago, I learned how to solve the small hat situation using another method, pulling the braid--not pushing it as I had read earlier.  So, I let Ignatius know that whatever he decided was OK with me; I was so thankful for his generosity.  Ignatius said that it was OIK with him to publish his email; so here it is in it's entirety:

On the machine there is a tipper that is just above the needle on the right side of the needle bar, there is a straight wire spring that is sticking out of a little hole, the whole tipper pulls out, and when you sew it raises the foot a little every stitch and allows you to make that tight curve around your hand sewn button.  If it doesn't pull out right away turn the flywheel till it does.  Or lower the foot. If you have trouble figuring out what I am talking about just feel around about two inches or so above the needle and to the right for a part that will pull out  (it is a sort of odd lever shape)  it pulls out about a quarter inch or more toward you,  that should help you sew the tip. Also, you will note that when the tipper is pulled out there is a hex screw that the top of the tipper hits against. You will turn the hex  screw out, or extended, for a thicker straw, that will give you a higher raised foot, or turn the screw up, so it will jump less for fine straw.

Now, I have to point out something here.  Given the information above and the fact that the same thing can be accomplished by pulling the straw (I'll explain later),  I now had everything I needed to know about sewing straw braid.  So, understanding this bit of information propelled me to the finish line (well, I'm still no expert, but I do OK), a very short time--an hour maybe.  So lets get started.

Preparing to Sew the Braid  (more detail will be added in the future)

1. Familiarize yourself with the materials I've provided  you below--books, videos, patents
2. Set up your work area*
   
3. Adjust the braid spacing by adjusting the straw braid guide
4. Sew the button by hand (approximately 1" inch wide--I prefer a little wider).  Read Straw Hats, Their History and Manufacture:  Chapter IX, Hand and Machine Sewing
5. Read Ignatius' email above
6. Pull the tipper out to sew the tip (top crown) of the hat
7. Sew the crown tip
8. Push the tipper back in after the crown tip has reached your desired width
9.  Push the tip down vertical to the floor (see videos) and continue sewing
10. When the side crown has reached its depth, turn the crown horizontal to the floor and pull the edge of the crown.  It will begin to flair out forming a brim
11. After the brim has reached the desired width, pull the lower single braid to decrease/curve (if desired) the brim after you have reached the desired width
12. Study better straw hats
13. Observe
14. Practice
15. Practice

*The Spool (...work area)

Actually I don't know what the rotating contraption is call that the professionals hold their braid on, so I'll call it a spool.  I created one by simply placing a Lazy Susan (one of those circular rotating things that is placed in the middle of a table) on my work surface and placing my camera tripod on it.  The Lazy Susan has ball barrings under it, so it will move freely without securing the tripod to it.  As the straw is taken up while sewing, the Susan and straw moves very smoothly.

Where to Purchase a Straw Machine

eBay:  This is where I purchased my machines, including additional machines for parts.  Search on Willcox & Gibbs and hat sewing machine.

City Sewing:  Sewing machines, parts and services.

Note:   These old machines are mechanical; so, more than likely, your local sewing machine repair shop can repair them, if you decide to purchase a machine off eBay.  Make sure that you study images of complete sewing machines before you purchase one from anyone other than a sewing machine shop. 

Where to Purchase Straw
Sun Yokos Enterprise (USA), Inc.:  Straw braid and other millinery supplies.
Manhatco:  Straw and other millinery supplies.  Old fashion in a good way; nice people; located in New York, (212) 764-2218


U. S. Patents (there are others)

Improvement in Machines for Sewing Straw, Straw Hat Sewing Machine, Guide for Straw Braid Sewing Machines, Sewing Machine Tension, Guide for Straw Braid Sewing Machine, Presser-Foot-Lifting Mechanism,Tension Apparatus for Straw Hat and Other Sewing Machines

Helpful Videos

We all learn in different ways; some of you will look at these videos and see nothing; others will see plenty.  Play certain segments over and over again.  Maximize the screen to get a better view of video.
Sewing Straw, The Hat Makers, Straw Boaters, Jack Straw Comes to Town, Caught by the Camera


Free Online Book

In order to achieve some of the shapes you may try in the future, it's important to study books that teach how to hand sew straw.
How to Make Hats; A Method of Self-Instruction Using Job Sheets:  Unit III, Straw Work
Straw Hats, Their History and Manufacture:  Chapter IX, Hand and Machine Sewing

I Little Advice

Practice, observe, research, practice.

Jasmin Zorlu Making a Hat With Paris Cloth

For some of us here in the States new, exciting, and exotic millinery materials are hard to come by.  We usually lag behind--sometimes years--when it comes to the acquisition and training in the use of these materials.  So, when I saw Jasmin Zorlu's video on Paris Cloth and its manipulation, I was extremely excited.

Thanks for sharing!

If you are looking for a place to purchase Paris Cloth, visit the Torb and Reiner site mentioned in the video.

Carve Your Own Utility Hat Block

I have an extremely large head--my head size plus big hair equals extremely large head.  All I'll say is that my largest utility hat block is a size 24.  I pad this 24 with felt to increase its size, or I'll stretch the finished hat with a hat stretcher.  I wanted a block specifically dedicated to my head size; so, I decided to carve one.  I prefer to save my money for more exciting purchases like the block below, my latest acquisition.  Now that's a hat block!  Sorry, I'll get back to the purpose of this post--teaching you how I carve a utility hat block.

Carving a hat block is pretty simple.  Many times you will be concerned with creating curves.  In order to create a curve, you would cut your foam or wood edges diagonally; at least that's how I start.  When one edge is cut, you are left with two edges, these two edges are also diagonally cut, forming more edges and those edges are cut, and so on and on.  This is demonstrated in the image above.

I purchased a large Styrofoam cube and scored an "X" on the top and bottom of it (a line from corner to corner), dividing the  foam into equal sections.  I traced my size 24 head size plate onto paper and added 1/8" inch to the traced pattern.  Adding 1/8" to your pattern equals 1/2" to your head size; 1/4" equals one inch, and so on. Unfortunately, this 17" x 17" cube was not large enough for my head size.  I'll get back to this fact later.  The pattern is moved to the bottom of the cube without turning the pattern over.  So, under the bottom of the cube, after moving the pattern down, you will not see the pencil markings on the pattern, but you will be able to see them slightly through the paper because you did not flip the paper over.  These two tracings should be in the same position on top of the cube, as well as on the bottom side.

 Using two straight-edged knives--a large one for mass carving and a small one for detail carving--I removed the excess foam.  My next step was to sand the foam with medium sandpaper.  Always wipe dust from block after sanding.   I applied a lite coat of wood filler and let it dry.  After the filler dried, I sanded the block again.  I applied another coat of sealer, but this time the coat was much thicker.  Remember I said that the foam was not wide enough to accommodate my head size and that 1/8" would increase the block size by 1/2 inch.  Well, the second coat of sealer was a thicker one that also added girth to the block.  This was followed with another sanding.

After letting the filler dry, I added some acrylic paint to some white glue for color.  I added the glue for extra protection and to give the block a softer, springier feel--nice to pin into .  This was followed by two coats of  polyurethane, letting each coat dry before adding another.  Overkill; yes.  I could have stopped after I carved the block, providing it was the correct head size,  but the block would not last as long without some type of protection.  I could have painted on the white glue and nothing else.  I could have used paper mache.  Experiment.  I also like adding the polyurethane because I don't have to worry about heat.  These blocks, when protected with some type of covering, are just as durable as a balsa wood hat block and the cost is much less than a balsa block.


Try carving other shapes and other materials.  To your right is a block I carved in wood with three interchangeable tip.  I learned a big lesson when I carved this block.  I learned not to carve the block on the trace line, but to carve outside of the line.  Sawing or carving on the line reduces the head size, and sanding further reduces it.

Two notes concerning this finished block:



1.  If you click on the image to your left to enlarge the image, you will notice that the block is in profile.  There is actually a bump on the back of the block, as on the back of the head.

2.  In order to get a finer grain on your block, use better sandpaper than I did.  I used old sandpaper because I didn't want to go out to purchase more.

Don't forget to mark the front and back of your block; there is a difference unless you use a round headsize collar rather than an oval as I did.

Always use a dust respirator when sanding wood and  foam.

Always measure your block from top to bottom when carving and sanding to maintain consistent measurements.

Don't forget to coat the bottom of the block with a sealer also.

A more economical material to use for block carving is the sheet foam house insulation.  However, I personally prefer the regular craft Styrofoam, not the soft flower foam.

Remember that an extra one fourth of an inch will add one half of an inch to the head size of a block.



Also, try carving fancier shapes; doing so could mean that your hats would not look like all the others'.  It's really easy.  Enjoy!!

 Check out the two videos below.

Styrofoam Hat block from Al Ojeda on Vimeo.