Threads Magazine: How to Make a [Facinator] Hat Base

There are certain magazines that I have to pick up every month, depending on their content for that month.  Threads Magazine is one of those magazines.  I've been loving it for years, and now even more so.  You see, Threads is featuring millinery tutorials, and from what I've read there will be more such tutorials down the road.  Millinery information is in great demand today, so take advantage of every source you come across.  There is always something to learn.

The image to the right, from the Threads' site, is just one example of what is being offered.  Check out how to make the bow for this hat, including how to make the faux feathers.  When you're on the site query on millinery, hat making, hat trimming, and hat embellishment for even more millinery tutorials.

Please note that, in the sidebar to your right, there is a link to Threads noting to check out their stitch videos.  Just query on your stitch of interest.  Have fun!

Images From My Last Draping Class

I can't tell you how much I enjoy teaching millinery, and when the students are as enthusiastic as those that were in my last draping class, it's an extra added bonus.

Many times a full-size hat covers too much hair.  No wonder that this is why the fascinator/cocktail hat is so popular today.  So I made this small suede and vinyl hat for class show-and-tell, thus making draping relevant to current fashions.

A student's work should always outshine her/his instructor's, and that was certainly the case in this class.  To the  right is Colleen's beautiful draped pillbox.  This image does not adequately show the intricate details in this lovely hat.

Gladys is quite an accomplished clothing designer, and it shows in her lovely little cocktail hat. 



Thanks ladies.

A Day of Felting and Draping!

I never miss the opportunity to take a millinery class.  I'm all about the continuous learning concept.  After over 25 years of taking classes and reading how-to books, I'm still learning.  So when I had an opportunity to taking a felting class I jumped at opportunity.   I had done a little felting in the past but I needed to upgrade my skills. Suzi Holloway of Wearable Art,  Rehn Dudukgian of Bijou Van Ness, and yours truly could not have had more fun than if we were six year olds playing in the sand.  The three of us actually completed our felting projects in class.

After the felting class I conducted a draping class.  I brought along two hats for show and tell--a classic 1940s-style hat and a contemporary doll hat/cap.  My goal was to demonstrate how versatile draping could be.  Suzi completed her drape, and I must say that I was quite impressed.  

Check out Suzi and Rehn at the next Downtown Fashion Walk on March 18th; I may even show up.  Don't forget to visit Rehn's Web site where you will find her beautiful couture millinery creations.  You can reach Suzi at Szholloway@aol.com.  You'll have to pick up one of Suzi's hats and fascinators at the Fashion Walk.  I even bought one of her hats at the last Walk.  I was surprised that she had hats large enough to fit my size 25 1/2 head and hair.  

By the way, that's Suzi holding the mirror, wearing one of her hats, and the cute lady looking into the mirror, also wearing a Suzi hat, is my little sister, Robin.  Thanks again to Carol Cirillo Stanley for taking this lovely image.  



Check out the purple hat that Suzi is holding.  Great job!

Foundations for My Cocktail/Fascinator Hats

Within a few weeks I need to make quite a few hats  for the Downtown Fashion Walk this month.  The only way that I could possibly make the number of hats I will need is to make smaller hats; thus, I will be concentrating on cocktail hats.  I always have something sitting in the corner that needs to be completed.  In this case I had blocked a buckram frame that I was going to use for a draped hat.  Well I decided to make cocktail hat foundations from the frame instead.

Before I get started, I promised you more free on-line millinery book sources.  One of the most extensive collections of free on-line millinery books that I'm aware off is the University of Wisconsin's Digital Collection, The human Ecology Collection.  I have created a search for you located here.  I suggest that you read as many of these books as possible, take as many millinery classes from as many instructors as possible (even the bad ones), and finally practice, practice, and experiment, experiment.  Oh, don't let anyone tell you that something has to be done a particular way...but please don't use a glue gun!



Using a compass, I drew circles on the frame.  Because the utility block has nice curves, these curves would be realized in the small frames that I cut from my original blocked frame. I could have drawn a teardrop, a headband, or any irregular shape onto the buckram.


After cutting my little frames out I wired them using a buttonhole stitch.  To show how the wires could be finished off, I overlapped the wire of one frame and sewed it into place.  I used a millinery wire joiner on the other frame, crimped the joiner to the wire using a jewelry bead crimper.  Before I discovered this little tool I used wire cutters to crimp and secure the joiners to the wire.



Next I covered the millinery wire with a bias strip of crinoline, attaching it with a running stitch.  It's important to attach crinoline to the frame for two reasons--
 to cover the wire and to provide an anchor  for attaching the fabric.  I then covered the upper frame with wadding (not shown, see the Vase Hat post).

My next step was to cover the prepared frame with fabric.  I pinned the fabric to the frame by first pinning the right side, then the left, then the bottom, then the top.  In other words 1/2s, 1/4s, 1/8s, etc.  This causes the fabric to fit the frame better--an even pull.  Notice the curved needle at the bottom of the images at left and bottom.  I use a curved needle when I have a difficult time retrieving the needle from the fabric.

When a curved needle is used the needle exits the fabric in a curve, thus making it easier to pull the needle out of the fabric.  You could also save your bent millinery needles and use them for this purpose.  I  used the whip stitch to attach the fabric and the feather trim to the frame.

I'm such a plain Jane when it comes to trimming a hat.  I prefer very little if any trim, but I realize that many prefer a little bling.  So, I'll add some trim, put in a lining and headband, and finally add a hat elastic.  I'll post pictures after I trim this little hat.