Carve Your Own Utility Hat Block

I have an extremely large head--my head size plus big hair equals extremely large head.  All I'll say is that my largest utility hat block is a size 24.  I pad this 24 with felt to increase its size, or I'll stretch the finished hat with a hat stretcher.  I wanted a block specifically dedicated to my head size; so, I decided to carve one.  I prefer to save my money for more exciting purchases like the block below, my latest acquisition.  Now that's a hat block!  Sorry, I'll get back to the purpose of this post--teaching you how I carve a utility hat block.

Carving a hat block is pretty simple.  Many times you will be concerned with creating curves.  In order to create a curve, you would cut your foam or wood edges diagonally; at least that's how I start.  When one edge is cut, you are left with two edges, these two edges are also diagonally cut, forming more edges and those edges are cut, and so on and on.  This is demonstrated in the image above.

I purchased a large Styrofoam cube and scored an "X" on the top and bottom of it (a line from corner to corner), dividing the  foam into equal sections.  I traced my size 24 head size plate onto paper and added 1/8" inch to the traced pattern.  Adding 1/8" to your pattern equals 1/2" to your head size; 1/4" equals one inch, and so on. Unfortunately, this 17" x 17" cube was not large enough for my head size.  I'll get back to this fact later.  The pattern is moved to the bottom of the cube without turning the pattern over.  So, under the bottom of the cube, after moving the pattern down, you will not see the pencil markings on the pattern, but you will be able to see them slightly through the paper because you did not flip the paper over.  These two tracings should be in the same position on top of the cube, as well as on the bottom side.

 Using two straight-edged knives--a large one for mass carving and a small one for detail carving--I removed the excess foam.  My next step was to sand the foam with medium sandpaper.  Always wipe dust from block after sanding.   I applied a lite coat of wood filler and let it dry.  After the filler dried, I sanded the block again.  I applied another coat of sealer, but this time the coat was much thicker.  Remember I said that the foam was not wide enough to accommodate my head size and that 1/8" would increase the block size by 1/2 inch.  Well, the second coat of sealer was a thicker one that also added girth to the block.  This was followed with another sanding.

After letting the filler dry, I added some acrylic paint to some white glue for color.  I added the glue for extra protection and to give the block a softer, springier feel--nice to pin into .  This was followed by two coats of  polyurethane, letting each coat dry before adding another.  Overkill; yes.  I could have stopped after I carved the block, providing it was the correct head size,  but the block would not last as long without some type of protection.  I could have painted on the white glue and nothing else.  I could have used paper mache.  Experiment.  I also like adding the polyurethane because I don't have to worry about heat.  These blocks, when protected with some type of covering, are just as durable as a balsa wood hat block and the cost is much less than a balsa block.


Try carving other shapes and other materials.  To your right is a block I carved in wood with three interchangeable tip.  I learned a big lesson when I carved this block.  I learned not to carve the block on the trace line, but to carve outside of the line.  Sawing or carving on the line reduces the head size, and sanding further reduces it.

Two notes concerning this finished block:



1.  If you click on the image to your left to enlarge the image, you will notice that the block is in profile.  There is actually a bump on the back of the block, as on the back of the head.

2.  In order to get a finer grain on your block, use better sandpaper than I did.  I used old sandpaper because I didn't want to go out to purchase more.

Don't forget to mark the front and back of your block; there is a difference unless you use a round headsize collar rather than an oval as I did.

Always use a dust respirator when sanding wood and  foam.

Always measure your block from top to bottom when carving and sanding to maintain consistent measurements.

Don't forget to coat the bottom of the block with a sealer also.

A more economical material to use for block carving is the sheet foam house insulation.  However, I personally prefer the regular craft Styrofoam, not the soft flower foam.

Remember that an extra one fourth of an inch will add one half of an inch to the head size of a block.



Also, try carving fancier shapes; doing so could mean that your hats would not look like all the others'.  It's really easy.  Enjoy!!

 Check out the two videos below.

Styrofoam Hat block from Al Ojeda on Vimeo.

Classic Millinery

I guess I should create more contemporary hats, but somehow they just don't excite me as much as classic millinery.  When I see an old hat in a thrift or antique store, the first thing I do is turn it over and study how it was made.


Check out these free online books to learn more about classic millinery techniques.

Archive.Org

Vintage Sewing Info

University of Wisconsin: Human Ecology

Above is a draped cloche.  The foundation material is buckram, draped with stretch velvet, and trimmed with a vintage brooch.  The folds of this hat are very fine and classy.  The drape ends in a scarf  that wraps around the neck.




To your right is a draped fringe hat.  Again the foundation material is buckram.  Rhinestones in the same color of the fringe have been added for a little sparkle. 

Both hat frames were wet blocked:  the cloche over a cloche balsa block; and the fringe, over a basic balsa utility block.



Below I show how I lined the hats.

The Balsa Wood Utility Hat Block: My Favorite Working Block

Recently I needed a hat for a special occasion, and I was just not going to pull out the steamer, a set of hat blocks (crown and brim), millinery wire, sizing, etc.  After all, I only had an hour or so to make this hat...and it was not like I was making it for anyone but myself. In other words, I was not going to be the perfect couture milliner today.

So what was a girl to do?  Well I reached up and pull down a balsa wood hat block in my head size.  It wasn't glamorous like the ones I set out for display--the blocks I call my sculptures, the blocks I would not dare to nail  into.  Hold your head up Ms. Balsa.  All of those other hat blocks may be eye candy, but if I needed to make 100s of hats and was given the choice to choose one out of  those other blocks, it would be you, girl!

Why? Look around when you enter a store.  How many 1920s - 1940s (my blocks of choice) hat shapes would you find there.  Usually the crowns are round and the brims are plain.  Given a utility block, I can style a fedora, a pixie, a 1920s cloche, all the cocktail/fascinator hats I would ever possibly need and in any shape--well almost.  Using the excess fabric (felt or straw)  draping from the crown, I could create a sailor brim, a deep cuff brim, a symmetrical brim, an asymmetrical brim, etc., and that's without a brim block.  I could add all types of shapes to the balsa block because it's soft and easy to pin into, thus creating hundreds of hat shapes.  Just think about it!  From couture to not so couture, this block is the one.

The block shown here is my latest balsa acquisition.  It is a size 28; huge!  I'll use it as a veiling block (block used for blocking veils).  I found this one on EBay for around $39 plus shipping.  These blocks retail upwards of nearly $200.  So, before you purchase one, do some research.

So, for all of you out there that are new to millinery, on a limited budget, and feel that you have to amass a million hat blocks to start a small businesses or to make your own hats--and I've talked to some of you--start with a simple balsa block and a head size collar ($10).  The average woman's head size is 22 1/2.  If you need a larger block, say a 23 to 24, just block felt (must have wool content) over the block to increase its size....

Technique for making the finished hat?  I selected the balsa block in the size I needed, including a headsise collar (see drawing below); in this case, a straw capeline (over-sized, brimmed straw); a fine spray water mister (bottle); a pressing cloth, a blocking cord (see video below on tying your own); and an iron and ironing board.  I covered my block with plastic so that it would not be damaged by steam and/or water, misted the inside of the straw, and placed the straw on the block.  After determining my desired crown depth, I tied the crown portion of the straw to that depth using a blocking cord.  After which  a damp pressing cloth was placed over the crown and only the crown pressed.  Set the straw aside to dry.  After drying, mark the center front of your crown, remove the straw from the block, place a headsize collar inside the crown and press around the collar to set the 90 degree crown/brim angle; press the brim.  Don't forget the pressing cloth; you don't want to scorch your straw.  This straw came heavily starched; so it was perfect for a floppy brim without a wire.  I ironed the brim edges back, put the hat back onto the block to finger-set the pleats.  Finally I sewed the trim on.  Yes, that's leather on a summer hat; it was my daughter's suggestion, and I liked it.  I made the leather rose when I was teaching myself how to do bead embroidery.  Sorry, but I'll have to put the headsize ribbon in latter.


Have you ever wondered how to make a blocking card?  Well, the slip knot is my favorite method.  I tie a knot on each end of the rope so that it does not slip back through the main knot.  I use polyester clothe line rope for  my blocking cords.  View the YouTube video below.  Enjoy

Notes:  

1. Check out the Free Online Books from my previous posts for additional help.
2. Don't forget the Los Angeles County Fair Millinery Contest; you must adhere to posted dates.  More detail is in one of my previous posts.
3. If you believe in prayer, please take a moment to send out a prayer for me on Monday, the 24th, as I will be involved with serious medical issues on that day.  If prayer is not your thing, please send out wonderful positive thoughts.  At this point, I don't know how long before I will be able to post again; hopefully within the next three weeks.

Thanks, Lee




How to Tie Your Own Blocking Card:  The Slip Knot Method