Creating a Top Hat Without a Top Hat Block; Another Example of Hat Blocking Without Pins and Nails

Creating a Top Hat Prototype

It's almost time for my felt blocking class that will be held on March 8.  Usually, I ask students what type of hat they would like to create in class.  One of the students wrote that she wanted to make a top hat.  OK, it's panic time!  I don't have a top hat block!  The top hats that I've made have always been flat pattern buckram hats.  So I told her that I didn't have a top hat block, but that she was not to worry because I'd figure something out. Usually I think up some over kill process to solve an issue. So I had two techniques I thought about using, but I scrapped those because, as I've grown older, I prefer to do less labor intensive things, or maybe I'm just growing lazy.  I prefer to let my brain do the heavy lifting.  That process usually starts by sitting in a chair, looking out into space, and just thinking.


Now as I was sitting in my chair thinking, I started looking around the room, and there I found my solution.  A two minute solution that I've been using for decades!  I became excited and started blocking my hat and shaping the flared tip (top) until hunger set in.  When hunger sets in, everything ceases:  the sun goes down, the air is sucked out of the room, my head "jumps time;" you get the picture.  So after I had cooked and eaten, I refined my project and a flared top hat prototype was born.  Note that I could have made a flat tip.  I can't wait to teach the technique in class.  Now all I have to do is taper the size down to the small head size of the student.  Stay tuned. By-the-way, I always keep pre-used  materials to practice on.  I love continuous experimentation and learning!

Another Example of Blocking Without Pins and Nails (American Style Hat Block)

OK, for those that have been told that you will not be able to get crisp edges, etc., on blocked hat materials (felt, straw, etc.) unless you nail it down, it's probably because they either don't know how to block without pins and nails, or it's because they haven't been successful at doing it themselves.  Also, you must remember that there are more components to blocking than steaming and securing the material to the block.  Here I have a 30s/40s doll hat block (small adult hat block).  Usually, when I see some of the cap blocks they have been pinned or nailed in the area of the bill (visor) where it meats the head size.  So if the block has been used often, that area has probably been destroyed.

Anyway, here are a few images that shows how to block a cap without pins and nails.  Keep in mine that as the  style of block changes, so does the solution for blocking it without nails or pins.  You have to use your imagination before you start banging into your block.

Millinery Classes: Call for Serious Inquiries

Hi all, below is the message I left on my Facebook page concerning possible future classes in July and/or August.  Please only contact me if you know you will do this. I have a vast range of millinery skills that I have acquired over almost 30 years.  I do not enjoy giving "drive-by" classes in which a student walks away with the same skill level he/she walked in with--been there, done that.  You need feedback on your work giving over a period of time, especially beginners!  Location:  Torrance, California, Los Angeles County, good old sunny Southern California!

The hat to your left was constructed using a hand blocked parisisal straw hood and hand-sculptured sewn straw braid for the crown.  The brim was constructed of vintage four-inch straw braid, hand sewn (each row separate, not spiral), and wired and hand weaved where straw is joined at back. 

"I get many class inquiries through my email address and one ever once in a while on the Hatstruck Class site; many times these inquires are just that.  If you are serious about taking a class, I will consider giving one or more in July and/or August.  I don't have a regular schedule because I'm retired from my regular job, and I will never have a full-time job again, no matter how much I love it. 

In order to weed out those wanting to know how much it costs (too expensive I'm told), the cost will be between $180 and $245 (more for machine sewn straw, $575)--two, four hour days, preferably Saturday and Sunday, unless the class does not call for a break ($55 nonrefundable fee for cancellations within a week). 

I will consider doing semi-private couture classes, as my place is small, and I will not do drive-by couture classes for beginners; you will have to do the time--two hours each visit (same price) so that you will have a chance to bring your work back for critique.  I refuse to let you leave if your work looks worse than mine :)

So, if you are in Southern California or would like to travel to take a class, and you are serious, please let me know the class you are interested in taking and I will pool the class depending on what type of class the majority wants to take.  For me, because I do not have a studio, classes are expensive to pull off and I personally don't like hauling so many supplies around [but I will for these group classes if there are enough students], only send an email or message me if you are doing so to commit to a class.  Thanks"

Millinery Tutorial Poll Results

HATS:  HEADS AND TAILS (click on image to start video)

I asked you what types of tutorials you would like to see here, and I really appreciate those of you that took the time to participate.  I've been brainstorming ways that I could reward those of you that follow me, email me, and leave comments; so, there is a surprise coming to you very soon for your extra efforts.  Your support is greatly appreciated.  Additionally, I'm extremely passionate about couture millinery and the continued growth of this beautiful art form.

There is nothing new under the sun.  Enjoy these two vintage videos (one below also)  from the past addressing millinery trim (poll winner).  Here are the poll results:

• Buckram Frames--Flat Pattern:      7
• Buckram Frames--Blocked               6
• Straw Blocking:                                    10
• Felt Blocking:                                          8
• Millinery Trim (flowers, etc.):        13
• Other (no comments left):                  3

I estimate that 33% of my learning came from the classes I've taken over the years, and I never get tired of taking classes, if I can find them; 33% percent from books, other media, and observation; and 33% from experimentation.   In other words, I Never Stop Learning, Experimenting, and Taking Classes!  I've noticed something that's very interesting to me.  When a milliner is given lots of praise for their work and that work is in great need of improvement, in some cases that milliner ceases to grow because they grow to believe that they are as good as the hype.  So to those milliners just starting out, if your headsize ribbon is falling out of your hat; your headband does not hug the side of your hat; if your fabric (on covered hats) does not hug your hat frame like a fine glove, and it looks like you're gathering the waistband of a skirt; if you think blocking is only for felt and straws; if you spend more on glue than thread in your "couture workroom," etc, etc., please research why these things are happening.  

A second observation::  milliners with poor skills pass on their bad skills on.  Learn to tell the difference between a good and a bad milliner.  Ladies and gentlemen, there are too many fantastic milliners out their to study, past and present.  If you have learned to tell the difference between a well made dress and a poorly made dress or purse or shoes, you can learn to tell the difference between a well made hat and a poorly made one.  My work still needs plenty of improvement, and I'm not even a perfectionist!  

How to Make Your Own Millinery Flower Stamens

Every once in a while I'm disappointed about my ability to secure millinery-related items.  Usually I can't find a material I once used because it's not being made anymore; if I find it, it's over priced just because it's a "millinery" item (millinery is really hot now); or it's "vintage", etc.  This time I was disappointed because I purchased several separate packages of stamens from a seller on my favorite auction site; you know the one.  I emailed the seller to ask for a discount on postage, since the stamens could all be mailed in the same envelope.  I should have known better when the seller didn't email me back.  Well! I received the stamens in one package of nasty brown paper bag torn and taped together.  I would have appreciated the stamens costing more and the postage being what it should have been.  This act led me to experiment with making my own stamens.

 After experimenting with a number of things, I found that the things shown in the image to your left gave me the best results.  These included glazed hand quilting thread, acrylic paint, and fabric stiffener.  First, I rolled my flower petals and set them aside. I cut the thread into strands approximately 24 inches long, dipped them into the fabric stiffener, and then I hung them across a clothing rack to dry (do not let strands touch). The drying only takes a few minutes.  After drying, I rapped the thread around a 2 1/2- inch piece of cardboard that I used as a cutting gauge.  Next, I cut each end of the thread.  Finally, I dipped each end into the acrylic paint.

After I dipped the stamen tips, I set them aside to dry.  I used a gridded aluminum pan, but just about anything that would  allow the stamen tips to hang over without touching each other would do.

Finally, the stamens are finished.  One group of stamens on the tray below is commercially prepared; can you tell which one?  They are the stamens on the extreme left.  To the right of these are stamens that I double dipped, first in yellow paint and then in purple paint to obtain the same effect as the first group of stamens (click on the image to enlarge it.).  I used the non-gloss paint for the second dip because it is not as thick as the glossy paint.

Tips:  For a larger stamen tip, dip stamen ends several times.  The glossy paint yields a larger stamen tip because it is thicker.  Also, setting the paint aside for approximately 15 minutes before dipping will also yield a larger tip because the paint thickens the longer it is exposed to the air.

I know this is not for everyone, but for those of us that just like to make things, this will work.  Enjoy!

Images From My Last Draping Class

I can't tell you how much I enjoy teaching millinery, and when the students are as enthusiastic as those that were in my last draping class, it's an extra added bonus.

Many times a full-size hat covers too much hair.  No wonder that this is why the fascinator/cocktail hat is so popular today.  So I made this small suede and vinyl hat for class show-and-tell, thus making draping relevant to current fashions.

A student's work should always outshine her/his instructor's, and that was certainly the case in this class.  To the  right is Colleen's beautiful draped pillbox.  This image does not adequately show the intricate details in this lovely hat.

Gladys is quite an accomplished clothing designer, and it shows in her lovely little cocktail hat. 



Thanks ladies.

A Day of Felting and Draping!

I never miss the opportunity to take a millinery class.  I'm all about the continuous learning concept.  After over 25 years of taking classes and reading how-to books, I'm still learning.  So when I had an opportunity to taking a felting class I jumped at opportunity.   I had done a little felting in the past but I needed to upgrade my skills. Suzi Holloway of Wearable Art,  Rehn Dudukgian of Bijou Van Ness, and yours truly could not have had more fun than if we were six year olds playing in the sand.  The three of us actually completed our felting projects in class.

After the felting class I conducted a draping class.  I brought along two hats for show and tell--a classic 1940s-style hat and a contemporary doll hat/cap.  My goal was to demonstrate how versatile draping could be.  Suzi completed her drape, and I must say that I was quite impressed.  

Check out Suzi and Rehn at the next Downtown Fashion Walk on March 18th; I may even show up.  Don't forget to visit Rehn's Web site where you will find her beautiful couture millinery creations.  You can reach Suzi at Szholloway@aol.com.  You'll have to pick up one of Suzi's hats and fascinators at the Fashion Walk.  I even bought one of her hats at the last Walk.  I was surprised that she had hats large enough to fit my size 25 1/2 head and hair.  

By the way, that's Suzi holding the mirror, wearing one of her hats, and the cute lady looking into the mirror, also wearing a Suzi hat, is my little sister, Robin.  Thanks again to Carol Cirillo Stanley for taking this lovely image.  



Check out the purple hat that Suzi is holding.  Great job!